:root{
  --paper:#fbf6ec; --ink:#181613; --beige:#fcecc8;
  --sunset:#d96f2c; --jungle:#2f5d3a; --coffee:#7a4f24; --healthy:#1f7a6b; --casual:#3f6d8c; --line:#e7ddc8;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);
  font-family:"Bricolage Grotesque",system-ui,sans-serif;line-height:1.5;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
a{color:inherit}
.wrap{max-width:1180px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}

/* hero */
header.hero{padding:52px 0 22px}
.kicker{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.18em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--sunset);margin:0 0 14px}
h1{font-size:clamp(38px,7vw,76px);line-height:.98;margin:0 0 18px;font-weight:800;letter-spacing:-.02em}
h1 em{font-family:"Instrument Serif",serif;font-style:italic;font-weight:400;color:var(--sunset)}
.lede{font-size:clamp(17px,2.2vw,20px);max-width:760px;margin:0 0 8px;color:#3a352c}
.lede b{background:linear-gradient(transparent 62%, var(--beige) 62%);padding:0 2px}

/* filters */
.filters{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:600;background:var(--paper);
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px 0;margin-top:20px}
.filters .wrap{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px}
.frow{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:flex-start}
.flabel{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:#9a917e;min-width:58px;padding-top:8px;flex-shrink:0}
.fgroup{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:7px;flex:1}
.fchip{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:12px;background:#fff;border:1.5px solid var(--line);
  border-radius:999px;padding:6px 12px;cursor:pointer;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;transition:.13s;color:#403b32}
.fchip i{font-style:normal;font-size:10px;opacity:.55}
.fchip:hover{border-color:#bdb39a}
/* category chips: filled, coloured, uppercase, bold */
.fchip.cat{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.03em;font-weight:700}
.fchip.cat-turkish{color:var(--sunset);border-color:var(--sunset)}
.fchip.cat-asian{color:var(--jungle);border-color:var(--jungle)}
.fchip.cat-coffee{color:var(--coffee);border-color:var(--coffee)}
.fchip.cat-healthy{color:var(--healthy);border-color:var(--healthy)}
.fchip.cat-casual{color:var(--casual);border-color:var(--casual)}
.fchip.cat.on{color:#fff}
.fchip.cat-turkish.on{background:var(--sunset)}
.fchip.cat-asian.on{background:var(--jungle)}
.fchip.cat-coffee.on{background:var(--coffee)}
.fchip.cat-healthy.on{background:var(--healthy)}
.fchip.cat-casual.on{background:var(--casual)}
.fchip.cat.on i{opacity:.85}
/* tag chips: outlined, lowercase, # prefix, ink when active */
.fchip.tag{text-transform:lowercase}
.fchip.tag::before{content:"#";opacity:.45}
.fchip.tag.on{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-color:var(--ink)}
.fchip.tag.on i{opacity:.7}
.fbar{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:12px;margin-top:2px}
.fcount{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:11.5px;color:#7a7363}
.fclear{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em;
  background:none;border:none;color:#9a917e;cursor:pointer;text-decoration:underline;visibility:hidden}
.fclear:hover{color:var(--sunset)}

/* map */
.mapsec{padding:24px 0 6px}
#map{height:60vh;min-height:400px;border-radius:18px;border:1px solid var(--line);
  box-shadow:0 14px 40px -22px rgba(24,22,19,.45);scroll-margin-top:70px}
.legend{display:flex;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;
  font-size:12px;margin:14px 2px 0;color:#5a5447}
.legend span{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:7px}
.dot{width:13px;height:13px;border-radius:50%;border:2px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 0 0 1px rgba(0,0,0,.15)}
.dot.turkish{background:var(--sunset)} .dot.asian{background:var(--jungle)} .dot.coffee{background:var(--coffee)}
.dot.healthy{background:var(--healthy)} .dot.casual{background:var(--casual)} .dot.home{background:#181613}
.lmark{width:26px;height:26px;border-radius:50% 50% 50% 0;transform:rotate(-45deg);
  border:2.5px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 3px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.35);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center}
.lmark b{transform:rotate(45deg);color:#fff;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:11px;line-height:1}
.lmark.home{background:#181613;border-radius:50%}
.lmark.home b{transform:none;font-size:13px}
.pop{width:206px}
.popimg{width:100%;height:116px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:8px;display:block;margin:0 0 8px}
.pop b{font-family:"Bricolage Grotesque";font-size:15px}
.pop .pa{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:11px;color:#7a7363;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em;display:block;margin:3px 0 6px}
.pop a{color:var(--sunset);font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;font-size:13px}

/* sections + cards */
section.catsec{padding:38px 0 8px}
.cathead{display:flex;align-items:baseline;gap:14px;border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);padding-bottom:8px}
.cathead h2{font-size:clamp(26px,4vw,40px);margin:0;font-weight:800;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.ct{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:12px;color:#7a7363;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em}
.catblurb{max-width:680px;color:#5a5447;margin:12px 0 24px;font-size:15.5px}
.grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(290px,1fr));gap:22px}

.card{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;overflow:hidden;
  display:flex;flex-direction:column;transition:.2s}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:0 18px 38px -22px rgba(24,22,19,.5)}
.card.hide{display:none}
.ph-wrap{position:relative;width:100%;padding-bottom:100%;background:var(--beige);overflow:hidden;flex:0 0 auto}
.ph{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block}
.ph-fallback{position:absolute;inset:0;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;
  background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--beige),#f3e3bf);padding:18px;text-align:center}
.ph-fallback span{font-family:"Instrument Serif",serif;font-style:italic;font-size:26px;color:var(--coffee)}
.pill{position:absolute;left:12px;bottom:12px;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;
  font-size:10.5px;letter-spacing:.04em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#fff;
  padding:5px 10px;border-radius:999px}
.pill-turkish{background:rgba(217,111,44,.94)} .pill-asian{background:rgba(47,93,58,.94)} .pill-coffee{background:rgba(122,79,36,.94)} .pill-healthy{background:rgba(31,122,107,.94)} .pill-casual{background:rgba(63,109,140,.94)}
.trav{position:absolute;right:12px;top:12px;z-index:4;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;
  font-size:10.5px;letter-spacing:.03em;color:var(--ink);background:rgba(252,236,200,.95);
  padding:5px 9px;border-radius:999px;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:4px}

/* ---------- carousel (cards + detail) ---------- */
.carousel{position:relative;width:100%;padding-bottom:100%;overflow:hidden;background:var(--beige)}
.carousel .track{position:absolute;inset:0;display:flex;overflow-x:auto;overflow-y:hidden;
  scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;scrollbar-width:none}
.carousel .track::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.carousel .track > a,.carousel .track > img,.carousel .track > .cfallback{flex:0 0 100%;width:100%;height:100%;scroll-snap-align:start;display:block}
.carousel .track a{height:100%}
.carousel .track img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block;-webkit-user-drag:none;user-select:none}
.cfallback{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--beige),#f3e3bf);padding:18px;text-align:center}
.cfallback span{font-family:"Instrument Serif",serif;font-style:italic;font-size:26px;color:var(--coffee)}
.cnav{position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);z-index:4;width:30px;height:30px;border-radius:50%;
  border:none;background:rgba(255,255,255,.88);color:#181613;font-size:17px;line-height:1;cursor:pointer;
  display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;opacity:0;transition:opacity .15s;box-shadow:0 2px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.22)}
.carousel:hover .cnav{opacity:1}
.cnav.prev{left:8px} .cnav.next{right:8px}
.dots{position:absolute;bottom:11px;left:50%;transform:translateX(-50%);display:flex;gap:5px;z-index:4}
.dots i{width:6px;height:6px;border-radius:50%;background:rgba(255,255,255,.65);box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,.5);transition:.15s}
.dots i.on{background:#fff;width:7px;height:7px}
@media (hover:none){.cnav{display:none}}
/* detail carousel + thumbnails */
.carousel.big{padding-bottom:60%;border-radius:18px;border:1px solid var(--line)}
.thumbs{display:flex;gap:10px;margin-top:12px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.thumb{width:88px;height:66px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:10px;border:2px solid transparent;cursor:pointer;opacity:.55;transition:.15s}
.thumb.on{border-color:var(--sunset);opacity:1}
.thumb:hover{opacity:1}
.body{padding:15px 17px 17px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:7px;flex:1}
.row{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:10px}
.body h3{margin:0;font-size:19px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:-.01em;line-height:1.15}
.body h3 a{text-decoration:none}
.body h3 a:hover{color:var(--sunset)}
.rate{white-space:nowrap;font-size:13.5px;font-weight:700;color:var(--sunset)}
.rate em{font-style:normal;color:#9a917e;font-weight:500;font-size:12px}
.area{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;
  letter-spacing:.06em;color:#8a8270}
.why{margin:4px 0 2px;flex:1}
.why b{display:block;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:10.5px;letter-spacing:.08em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--jungle);margin-bottom:3px}
.why p{margin:0;font-size:14.5px;color:#403b32}
.actions{display:flex;gap:16px;align-items:center;margin-top:2px}
.show,.detail{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:12.5px;font-weight:500;color:var(--ink);
  background:none;border:none;border-bottom:2px solid var(--beige);padding:2px 0 1px;cursor:pointer;text-decoration:none}
.show:hover,.detail:hover{border-color:var(--sunset);color:var(--sunset)}

footer{padding:46px 0 60px;color:#8a8270;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:12px;
  border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:40px;text-align:center}
footer em{font-family:"Instrument Serif",serif;font-style:italic;font-size:15px;color:var(--coffee)}
.loading{padding:60px 0;text-align:center;font-family:"Instrument Serif",serif;font-style:italic;
  font-size:24px;color:var(--coffee)}

/* ---------- detail page ---------- */
.dwrap{max-width:900px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
.back{display:inline-block;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:12.5px;letter-spacing:.04em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:#7a7363;text-decoration:none;margin:26px 0 18px}
.back:hover{color:var(--sunset)}
.dhero{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;object-fit:cover;border-radius:18px;border:1px solid var(--line);display:block}
.dhero-fallback{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;border-radius:18px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;
  background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--beige),#f3e3bf)}
.dhero-fallback span{font-family:"Instrument Serif",serif;font-style:italic;font-size:40px;color:var(--coffee)}
.dchips{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin:20px 0 10px}
.dchip{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.04em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--ink);background:var(--beige);padding:5px 11px;border-radius:999px}
.dtitle{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin:6px 0 2px}
.dtitle h1{font-size:clamp(32px,6vw,56px);margin:0;line-height:1}
.dtitle .rate{font-size:20px}
.dmeta{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:13px;color:#7a7363;text-transform:uppercase;
  letter-spacing:.05em;margin:8px 0 22px;display:flex;gap:18px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.dwhy{font-size:19px;line-height:1.55;color:#2c2820;max-width:680px;margin:0 0 8px}
.dwhy .lbl{display:block;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.08em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--jungle);margin-bottom:8px}
.dgallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(220px,1fr));gap:14px;margin:16px 0 0}
.dgallery figure{margin:0}
.dgallery img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;border-radius:14px;border:1px solid var(--line);display:block}
.dgallery figcaption{font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.06em;color:#8a8270;margin-top:7px}
#dmap{height:340px;border-radius:16px;border:1px solid var(--line);margin:26px 0 0;scroll-margin-top:20px}
.dcta{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin:22px 0 10px;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);
  text-decoration:none;font-family:"JetBrains Mono",monospace;font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.04em;
  padding:13px 20px;border-radius:999px}
.dcta:hover{background:var(--sunset)}
